Saturday, December 23, 2006
They say that the first surfers in the world came not from Hawaii or another part of the Polynesian triangle, but from Huanchaco, where ancient engravings show fisherman surfing their totara reed boats into the beach. It´s not hard to imagine when you can wake every morning to see the descendants of these peoples in the very same boats doing the very same thing with their catch of fish.
After being out of the water for so many months our seaborne activities were much less adept that we would have hoped...but it is always worth floundering in the surf and getting some salt and sea on the body. We did manage to dig in and catch a few waves...and with all the left handed breaks we were forced to get a bit better at the ol´ back hand to boot!